Friday, September 28, 2007

Newer Climbing Movie: Return 2 Sender

Return 2 Sender
Starring Timmy O'Neill

Features:
Paralellojams: Crack mechanics smoke Indian Creek's hardest lines.
Freebird: MAN + ROCK - ROPE = Michael Reardon solos SoCal.
Bug Out: Cicada Jenerick's V10 at age 10!!
40 Days and 40 Nights: Epic 1st ascents on Greenland's granite walls.
Mexican BASE: Freefall "El Gigante" and "Cave of the Swallows".
Biscuit and Felix: A Jack Russell's coming of age (on the rock).
Prego: What goes up must come OUT. Pull 'till you pop.

All I can say is that is the best climbing movie I have seen thus far.
Timmy is hilarious, and keeps the movie going at all times. Lots of funny stunts and skits. His Indian Creek beat box rules.

The climbing: It's all climbing, alpine, trad and more. The only bouldering is a section featuring the 10 year old that is a total sendbot.

The music: rulez. No white boy rappers. Just good music. So stoked

www.return2sendermovie.com

Thursday, September 20, 2007

11worth on the Fiftteenth

Rallied in the Rabbit with Brent on Sunday and met up with Rafe in the Icicle. Hit up the WaffleHaus first then headed to Duty Dome for our 1st routes. Once we found it correctly (went left past Fish Wall which was wrong), we got on a 5.9. Rafe lead and we followed. Full 30m route, I cleaned and rapped. Always fun to rap a full route since you can't mess up the rope length.

I led the next route which was a 5.8 on Duty Dome. Got near the last bolt but could not find it. Lowered down, grabbed a few camalots and headed back up. Placed 2 under some bomber flakes and headed up for da chains. Felt good to be leading again, especially placing gear.

We then headed back down and grabbed an espresso milkshake and sandwich at the Gingerbread Factory. After a long wait we headed out for Givler's Crack. Rafe had been there before, but it was not working, and we could not find the entrance to the route for some dumb reason. We just wandered around on the dust and lame descent trail. So we headed down and climbed at Hammerhead Rock at the entrance of Clamshell Cave. I lead a lame 5.6 trad route and then we TR'd the 5.10 slab multiple times, fun route.

We then headed back down to Alphabet Rock and climbed a 5.10 route on TR. Damn hard climb (i'll get route names tomorrow once I find my guidebook again). By this time it was raining, so we headed out for Heidleburger and shakes and back to the rain showers on the west side.