Monday, August 27, 2007

Jogging and Biking

I have been really trying to step up my physical exercise, since the deskjob and the cookies are not helping. 5.11's are few and far between these days, and I know I need to start now or else it will be 2x harder or more in 5+ years.

I have been jogging a minimum of 3 miles/day, trying to start slowly and get the knee used to the pounding, etc. It kind of hurt this morning,thus I will bike tomorrow morning.

It's amazing that I find myself excited in the morning, like I have been in the past when it is regarding a hike or a climb. I guess it's just an obcessive/compulsive behavior.

Tomorrow will be the bike, and I shoot for 10 miles minimum.

Saturday, August 25, 2007

From Stuey to 11worth

After weather thwarted our plans for Mt Stuart's West Ridge, we all decided to go cragging in 11worth instead. So Brent and his brother went to the Tieton River area, Sergio went to B.C., and Cody and I headed for Castle Rock.

Since we wanted to do a simple multi-pitch climb, I suggested, "Sabre" (5.4). A 2.5 pitch classic on Castle Rock that towers over the Lower Tumwater Canyon just minutes from 11worth off of Hwy 2.

We arrived to an almost empty parking lot (2 other cars) and headed up the trail. Upon arrival Cody realized he left his helmet in the car, so he got to jog back and back up. It didn't matter since there was a 3 person team that had just got on the route.

We found out later that there was a hornet's nest halfway up Pitch 1 on a ledge, just above the fixed piton. Cody got stung 3x as he just watched them sting him. He bypassed them pretty fast, and gained the Sabre ledge quickly and did a fine job of leading. I followed and realized just how difficult old school 5.4 can be, and happy that I did not lead the pitch (not much outdoor trad climbing for the past few years).

I was able to bypass the nest by traversing upder the ledge system and mantling up and onto the flake system. Cody led the 2nd pitch as well, with no issues except placing a #3 well out of my reach (he's taller) so I had to make a few odd moves to grab it and continue onward.

I took the last easy pitch of low 5th class, roping a tree, and placing a cam or 2 here and there. Set up the belay at the top, and then fumbled around trying to set up an auto lock belay with my reverso. I gave up and brought Cody up.

From there, we went to Heidleberger for some Bacon heli Burgers and Rockstars and made our way down the Icicle to Duty Dome. I was amazed how bad the trail was to Fish Wall, it must not see much traffic. We did all 3 routes (5.8+, 5.8+ and 5.9). Cody led all and then we headed out.


On our way out we stopped at Barney's rubble and cody led the 5.6 crack and TR'd the 5.8 off hands crack. We tried the 5.10 slab time and time again but it must be hella polished or something.......

Until the next time.......next year?

Pictures located here